In the world of frozen desserts, gelato is only beginning to gain momentum in the mainstream Canadian market.

“Right now, it’s something very niche and popular,” said Dino Falvo, director of business development with Mario’s Gelati and Uneek Brands. “There are a lot more people travelling the world…. People are asking for this product. There is consumer demand asking for something better than what’s been on the shelf for the last 30 years.”

Mario LoScerbo (left) and his son, Chris, display two seasonal flavours – white chocolate pomegranate gelato and cinnamon bun frosting gelato – available in November 2016.

All in the family

Mario’s Gelati – which produces CO-OP^® GOLD gelato and sorbetto – has grown from producing 2,000 to 4,000 litres per day to 35,000 to 40,000 litres per day. The gelato’s reach has expanded across Western Canada, the Pacific Northwest of the United States and into Asia.

The business’s namesake, Mario LoScerbo, immigrated to Canada in 1962, opening a restaurant in Winnipeg, Man., before moving to Vancouver, B.C. He began preparing gelato for his restaurant customers, calling on the knowledge he learned from his grandfather and father back in Italy.

“People didn’t even know what gelato was in Vancouver at the time,” said Falvo, who is LoScerbo’s nephew.

LoScerbo would move to the tasty treat business in a big way in the late 1960s because of customer response. Falvo said his uncle opened a location to sell gelato on Granville Island in the early 1970s, but operations have moved three times since to accommodate the increasing sales and demand.

At 78, LoScerbo is still running the show, but the business of making gelato enters the fourth generation with his son and daughter, along with Falvo, becoming involved in the operation.

Quality from the start

When it comes to gelato, flavour, texture and consistency are the key points for a great product. For Mario’s Gelati, that starts with sourcing natural ingredients – not settling for pastes or syrups that can be used to cut costs.

“It’s about being able to put a product into the marketplace that you can stand behind, that you’re proud of,” Falvo explained. “We use ingredients that support local farmers in the valley, like raspberries, blueberries and apples. We have used fresh fruit from day one.”

Mario’s Gelati has a catalogue of over 500 flavours of gelato and sorbetto from traditional staples like vanilla bean and chocolate to innovative flavours like rose water, pear with gorgonzola and lavender honey. Targetting the Asian market, Mario’s was the first to produce green tea gelato and then started making red bean, mango and durian, known as one of the world’s smelliest fruits.

Despite being produced in larger quantities, their production capabilities mean you’ll be taking home gelato similar to what you’d get in an Italian gelateria.

“We have found that fine balance between keeping it artiginale, which means artisanal, and producing on a large, commercial scale,” Falvo said. “Using the best ingredients and the faster you can freeze the product, the more authentic it’s going to taste.”

Gelato basics

While gelato is ice cream, the Italian version has a few characteristics that separate it from its North American counterpart. Falvo said gelato is richer and denser but can be a healthier alternative with fewer calories, less sugar and less saturated fats.

North American ice cream also has to have over 10 per cent butterfat content and has higher overrun, which means there is more air whipped into the final product. Serving temperature also differs.

“You should never eat the product coming straight out of the freezer,” Falvo noted. “The ideal consumption temperature is like a hot knife through butter.”

So scoop your gelato into a bowl and let it sit. Falvo said it should hold up for a few minutes in a chilled bowl without melting. While it may be hard to wait, you’ll love the end result. It’s actually one of the best parts of Falvo’s job.

“At the end of the day – and this is going to sound corny – but I’m selling smiles to people,” he laughed. “I’m selling ice cream. Little kids to old grandfathers, everyone loves it. Who doesn’t love it?”